Some lessons of Mozambique (and human nature)

Beira city-centre skyline

The following are tips we have learnt whilst living in Mozambique:

1. Men must always wear shoes (not flip flops) to church.

2. Always give and receive with your right hand.

3. Always reply to a request with the answer ‘yes’ even if you have no intention of doing it.

4. Offer any food you have if there are other people around.

5. Smiling goes a long, long way.

6. Make sure your thighs don’t show.

7. Beeping your car horn is a polite way of letting others know you are around. 

8. You're considered 'a youth' until you are 35 years old (a bit strange when life expectancy is 48...)

9.  Despite being a Portuguese colony, you drive on the left... ish.

10. Forget queuing! When waiting in line, stand as close as possible to the person in front and push in front if you get an opportunity.

Whilst at times it seems there are endless cultural things we are yet to learn, occasionally events cut across cultures. Here are two not so serious examples: 

Not that long ago, we were waiting for a driver to reverse out of a car parking space. The driver was taking ages and doing a very bad job of it. Nearby was a car park guard and we gestured a shrugged enquiry as to why the driver was having so much trouble with a simple manoeuvre. Through a hand gesture that was universally recognisable (but slightly awkward to describe in writing), he explained that the only problem with the vehicle was that it had a woman driver! Maybe a Mozambican Number One Ladies Driving School would go down well here...

Isaac helping clear a machamba (field) at a friends house

So, having insulted women drivers everywhere, it's probably only fair to give another story relating to perceived failings of Mozambican men. On another occasion, we were chatting to Dona Louisa, desperately trying to explain the importance of Isaac helping around the house in order that he understands that household jobs are not just for women. She heartily agreed, but quietly turned to Christine when Geoff wasn’t listening to point out that although this was a good theory, everyone knew that all men were worse than totally useless when it came to things like this.

We're aware these stories are a bit tongue in cheek, but finding common ground in the little things of life helps to remind us just how much of human life can cut across culture. Pray that we continue to find common ground with others as we get to know our neighbours living in very different circumstances here on the Mozambican coast.

The important things in life

I expected after being in Mozambique for three months and having acquired an overview of Mozambican life, I would be writing lots of deep and meaningful things on this blog: wonderfully insightful cultural, ethical and moral tales and the like. So, I’ve decided that this week’s post should be a reflection on the big events that have happened in our lives this week. There have been a few, after all:

Big Event number 1:

Geoff’s news (and I think this is the most significant) is that last week he reached the ripe old age of 30 and has finally stopped saying that he’s in his 20’s whilst I’m in my 30’s.  (It has been noted that there has been no sign of any maturing in his character since this particular landmark has been reached.)  Although his birthday in itself was a low key event, the following Saturday – armed with bucket and spade and accompanied by our friend, Heather – we went to the tropical paradise that is Rio Savanne, some 30km down a dirt track outside Beira.  The secluded beach requires a boat trip to get to and it was a wonderful day out.  Isaac especially enjoyed it as he learned to eat ‘fish in shells’ (otherwise known as clams).  The day was finished off by driving home under a beautiful African sunset.

Big Event number 2:

Isaac’s news is that after several failed attempts since we have been here (and lots of clearing up) he has decided to potty-train himself at last! Now, he knows when to go, how to wash his hands afterwards and the importance of showing his parents his offering in order to get a coloured star sticker.  The only down fall we’ve had is that one night, in his eager ness to show us his offering, he picked up the full potty and, running with it to show us, tripped over, pouring the whole lot down his front!  Well learning is a process, I suppose…

Big Event number 3:

It’s been a huge week in Naomi’s life as she’s quickly turning from a baby into a toddler.  Her first four teeth have appeared all at once and now she’s enjoying food much more and testing out which items are good to bite and which aren’t.  She has also learnt to walk, not in slow steady steps as most toddlers, but after months of making us walk beside her holding her hand, she’s off! And not slowly either; almost running before she can walk!

Big Event number 4:

Portuguese test number two has been taken and we are awaiting results.

Well, okay! This might not exactly be an insightful, thought provoking look into the complexities of life here or some astute response to the challenges of Mozambican culture, but it is a reflection on the events that have affected our lives last week… it’ll have to do until I become more wise!

What Mum and Dad won't tell you...

Mum and Dad have been a bit slow in the blog department so we are going to write this one, please excuse our mistakes as Naomi can hardly talk so writing a blog entry is particularly difficult for us. After our party, life has continued as normal so we thought we might tell you how our days are.

Every morning we wake up nice and early and act as the most effective alarm clock Mum and Dad have ever had.  Just in case the noise we make isn’t enough, Isaac likes to jump on the bed and generally climb all over them until they get up and get our breakfast.  Breakfast is a great time for making sure that the bath we take each night looks like it never happened.  Naomi feeds herself (and her hair) Weetabix and sometimes Isaac helps her by giving her some of his soggy cereal.  Then it’s play time, we run around laughing and avoiding Mum and Dad so that we can stay in our pyjamas.

Once they manage to dress us we head off to our nursery in our blue uniform tabards.  We both love school as we get to speak and listen to both English and Portuguese.  We play with other children and get to do drawing, singing and a little bit of learning numbers.  There is a big red slide outside and our favourite thing to do is climb up the steps, crawl through the tunnel and go down the slide again and again.

After nursery we get collected and go home for lunch. Then it’s nap time (although sometimes Naomi has a late lunch as she often falls asleep in the car).  If we’re nice to them, Mum and Dad get some free time to do homework and other boring things.  After our nap, we like to play ‘towers’ or go down stairs into the yard outside.  If Naomi wakes up early, she likes to go for a walk in a caplana (Mozambican sling) to buy fruit and vegetables from the market. After all our playing, we are hungry and generally want dinner at 5 o’clock (it normally arrives at 5.30 which is really very late). Both of us love to eat spicy food; if the food isn’t spicy enough we add spicy peri-peri sauce to it.  After a bath together with lots of splashing and a little bit of a DVD, it’s time for bed so that we can get lots of energy to wake up Mum and Dad bright and early the next day...

The best room for a party!

It might not have been the best cake we’ve ever made, but it certainly received the biggest response! Birthdays here are definitely to be celebrated if at all possible and if there are two birthdays in a family, there is cause for a big celebration. Dona Louisa had birthdays to celebrate this week: Raulinho had his first birthday on Monday and on Tuesday, Bilão turned three. As she now has a job, it was definitely time for a party.

Slowly the requests came: ‘Senhora, what do you need for a cake?’, ’Senhora, how to you bake a cake?’, ‘Senhora, could you bake a cake for me?’ The ingredients for the cake arrived one by one as they could be afforded and carefully stored away in our house so none of her neighbours were tempted to ‘borrow’ them. A few days later more questions: ‘Senhora, how do you cook spaghetti?’, ‘Senhora, are you around this weekend?’ and finally, ‘Senhora, could we hold the party in your garage?’ The spaghetti arrived along with other various ingredients, we had a practise cake-baking session and all was set and ready to go.

It’s Saturday morning, and Louisa and her husband, Abdul, arrive at our back door having swept and cleaned thoroughly below our apartment and sorted the garage ready.  The party is supposed to start at two that afternoon, but this is Africa so we expect it to start at three.  At around two-thirty, Dona Louisa arrives at our back door again and asks me to cook spaghetti for 4 adults and 10 children. We hadn’t realised this was part of the deal but it’s a bit late to say no now.  We quickly cook spaghetti to be ready by three… At four, the first guests and children arrive.

The garage is decorated with balloons, there is loud party music and children running, laughing and dancing. Naomi is whisked away by some of the children and promptly joins in the dancing (though in a proudly British, uncoordinated way). Isaac eventually realises that if he joins the children he gets food and he becomes part of the crowd. As dinner is served, a quick head count shows there are 8 adults and 25 children including us. We quickly pray for a miracle, something  similar to loaves and fishes, but there seems plenty to go round. Soon it’s time for the cake: the most important part. Happy birthday is sung and Raulinho and Bilão get the first pieces. The rest is eagerly shared out and, after a little more running around and dancing, the majority of children leave allowing Isaac and Naomi to play balloons with Dona Louisa’s children and to run wild in the yard.

Whilst the children were clearly having a great time, we all felt for Abdul, who carefully avoided the plentiful crisps and biscuits because of Ramadan. But we’re not sure food was on his mind that afternoon. He was quietly tucked away in a corner, listening intently to the radio through his mobile phone. But who can blame him! Clube Ferroviário da Beira were drawing 3-3 away from home in the capital Maputo with only a few minutes left. Ask any man anywhere in the world and they’ll give you the same response when it comes to priorities in that type of situation.

Oh, and last week’s test… We both passed and amazingly got exactly the same overall percentage. Just as well really, it’s not that we’re competitive,  but…

Sun, sand, surf and immigration...

A view over the city from our language school

This week has already been significant for lots of reasons. Firstly, we finally managed to get all our paperwork together and apply for a DIRE (Documento de Identificação de um Residente Estrangeiro) each. This is basically a residence permit for foreigners, and involved us traipsing up to the local immigration office with Pastor Moises yesterday to get this important job done. We were fearing the worst as these things can be a little tricky, but the whole process only took three hours (that’s really not at all bad) and was all very professional. The most amusing part involved trying to keep a screaming Naomi’s index fingers still for long enough for her fingerprints to be scanned!

This Friday we have our first little language test: just two and quarter hours of speaking, reading, listening, grammar and writing… Terrific! But, before we dive headlong into last ditch, late-night cramming sessions, Christine has the very important job of helping Dona Louisa make a trial-run birthday cake for two of her children, Bilão and Raulinho, who were 3 and 1 this week. This needs to go well because on Saturday our garage is going to be transformed into children’s party central…

Fishermen unloading fish and prawns at Macuti

And there’s more! These things pale into insignificance compared with Geoff having his first Mozambican haircut. He had toyed with the idea of embracing the beach-lifestyle scenery and adopting surfer-dude style golden curls but he couldn’t cope with the constant mocking from his wife. The verdict? A little on the severe side, but really not that bad!

When is a Lesson in Portuguese not a Portuguese Lesson?

Sorry we haven’t blogged for a while, the last few weeks have been a bit crazy as we've had intermittent water and lots of people have been talking to us about electricity, bombas, and things that aren't really covered in Chapters 1-3 of our exercise book. Language seems to be sinking in, but takes a lot of our time.  Whilst we are learning excellent things in lessons like how to introduce ourselves, explain directions, or order Portuguese delicacies in a café overlooking the Mediterranean,  it’s in the afternoons that the real lessons begin as we talk to the people who live and work around our apartment.  Christine may not have perfect verb endings but can discuss the day to day activities of the children’s bowel movements as required and Geoff is getting up to speed talking about water pumps and all things electrical.

 

Whilst were struggling through language and adapting to the challenges of a new culture, the children seem to have no such problem.  Isaac, when faced with a child he hasn’t met starts of by speaking in English and if there is no response reverts to the Portuguese he is picking up with ease.  Naomi (or Noémia as she is often called here) has discovered that she very much likes being in a caplana (see photo) and loves the attention she receives for saying ‘olá!’ to everyone she passes. Strangely, although she seems to have no problem understanding both languages when she is talked to about food, she ignores both when it’s about things she shouldn’t be doing...

Hopefully the bomba (pump) will be sorted soon and we’ll have a bit more free time to keep you all updated. Thanks for all the comments, emails and updates, they’re all really appreciated!

Language learning Mozambican style

Our daily routine revolves around our apartment, crèche and language school
(Satellite image ©  GoogleEarth)

Day one:

After dropping off two slightly concerned kids at their new crèche, we quickly found the concrete tower block that houses Beira’s Instituto de Línguas across town.  They said that our classroom has been upgraded especially for us, but although it had walls and several desks, there was no glass in the windows and no door in the doorframe. Not to worry though as just before the lesson started a man came to put a door in and we felt things were going to improve rapidly. 

Day two:

Day two went slightly less smoothly. After getting out late and dropping off two grumpy children, we arrived just in time for our lessons. But just as we put our bags on the table, the wind blew through the glassless window slamming the door shut.  Not a problem usually, but what we quickly noticed was that there was no door handle and we were trapped in! Our teacher tried to open the door in vain and shouted to us in Portuguese that he would get some help.  15 minutes later, with lots more shouting and far more people than seemed totally necessary, the door was opened and lessons could begin. We both decided we preferred the classroom without the door.

Day three:

The door was fixed (or more accurately, the catch was disabled) and lessons proceeded a little more smoothly. Now two weeks on, even some windows have glass in and there is only one more to fill.  As we desperately try to keep up with our teacher and Portuguese verb endings (why do they need so many!?), lessons are quickly moving forward and we are settling in to a pattern of language study and homework, punctuated of course by occasional trips to the beach or market. Both children have settled really well into their crèche; Isaac is especially fond of the big red slide in the garden. 

View from our apartment

We’re very daunted by just how much there is to learn, but we’ve been given lots of encouragement by very patient locals who have tried incredibly hard to understand our very badly constructed phrases. Fiona is already back in Angola and Lynne returns there tomorrow, so we now lose both our very handy translators. The charades of talking in the few Portuguese words we know and acting out the rest begins properly now…