Naomi

We are pleased to say that Naomi is back home from hospital and just has to continue antibiotics, no one has told her shes ill so she's currently chasing Isaac all over the house.

Thanks so much for your emails and messages.  Naomi is a bit better this morning but still needs to stay in the hospital/clinic for a few more nights.  Your prayers are appreciated.

New prayer letter

If you haven't read it already, our October prayer/news letter is now available online at the BMS World Mission website. Click here to have a read. Many thanks again for all your suport and prayers!

Church Party

It started a few weeks ago with instructions after the service: men, women and youths were to get together into their separate groups immediately. While the children continued to play wherever they happened to be, Geoff and I were guided in the correct directions and we sat in our separate groups trying to understand what was going on. For me, the women’s meeting opened and I was aware of a lot of discussion about cows and the best place to buy one, followed by more discussion about different types of food (food words I have somehow picked up more easily than others).  My helpful friend explained that there was to be a big party in a few weeks’ time to celebrate the pre-school PEPE project supported by BMS, the anniversary of the church as well as a celebration for the Pastor. All in all, it was to be a big event. Then, as the women started putting their hands up and saying what they wanted to contribute, all I saw was a cultural minefield ahead of me… Fortunately, I was saved at the last moment as some women were now telling others what was needed and I duly volunteered to buy whatever they wanted me to. After some discussion and amusing miming to explain the word ‘flour’, I was all set.  I went out to discover that Geoff’s meeting had finished a while beforehand: the guys had done some maths, worked out what money everyone needed to contribute and that was that, they were done.

A few weeks later, our donations in, it was the day of the party. As it was a three-fold party, each aspect was celebrated in style including traditional Sena (local language) music from the choir, R&B from the youth, dancing and presentations from the children, short Bible messages and so on. At one point, we had a long queue to greet and congratulate Pastor (in which somehow we ended up in the youth section of). At another point in the service, Isaac also ended up in the wrong place, and found himself at the front of the church as part of PEPE. We’d like to say that no one noticed but I’m not sure that’s true!

The few working fans did little if nothing to alleviate the heat in the church as the sun warmed the tin-roof like an oven. Whilst the service was amazing, I must admit I was relieved to have the excuse of the children which allowed me to listen to a lot of it from outside. There, sitting with other mums where there was a gentle breeze now and then and I made the most of the opportunity to dive home and collect another couple of litres of water after we had ran out of the first lot.  Geoff braved the whole service in the church and is now claiming to be fully acclimatised to the Mozambican summer (40°C plus and 85% humidity). He was especially pleased with himself when the Mozambican next to him left claiming it was too hot!  When the four hour service was over we all crossed over the road for a spectacular lunch (in which there was no whole cow to be seen as was my original concern). I sensibly chose to sit outside with the women so that the children could run around whilst Geoff was absolutely delighted to be sat inside again. Fortunately, this was a much cooler building and he did get to sit on a chair and eat from a table.  We all enjoyed a delicious lunch and Geoff was even part of the cake cutting party because, as we then discovered, the day was also partly to celebrate international missionaries. Having had the cake cutting ceremony we decided to return home with some very happy but tired children. In fact, they were so tired that they didn’t even mind missing out on the enormous cake! We think that’s a first.

A picture is worth a 1000 words.

A great view of Beira with the city skyline, Mozambique Channel and the mouth of the Rio Pungue clearly visible

We realise that this has been the  biggest gap between blog entries yet, but we have our reasons, not only has one of our bosses been here but my (Christine’s) parents came to stay for three weeks which was great.  We thought having been here only four months that our eyes were still open to seeing all the ways of life here that are different from what we were used to in the UK,  and we are definitely learning new things all the time.  However, with my parents we realised that we are starting to take some things to be normal that maybe we wouldn’t have before.  For example, my Dad was amazed at the number of people walking down the central reservation of a dual carriageway, my Mum was astonished by the sheer amount of stuff a woman here is capable of carrying on her head (whilst having a baby strapped to her back of course).  Things or situations that we have got used to they both found astonishing, for example the amount of people that can squeeze onto the back of a lorry, live goats tied to trucks to be transported and how enterprising people with limited resources can be.  Rather than try to explain what we think they saw as they stayed here we feel it would be more appropriate to give you a visual tour of what they saw.  And besides, Dad took near to 3000 photos so we might as well use some of them! 

The Plaza de Municipal in the city centre has strong a Portuguese cafe-culture feel

A typical streat in downtown Beira

Beira is full of very random sites like this plane in the subburbs. No one seems to really know how it ended up here...

Central Market is a great place to buy fruit and veg

The lighthouse at Macuti with the rusting remains of a Portuguese trawler

One of the very few tarmac roads, the EN6 is Mozabique's M4 and links Beira in the east with Zimbabwe in the west

As soon as you leave one of the very few highways, the vast majority of Mozambique's roads are dirt tracks like this. A 4x4 is an absolute necessity for driving outside the city

A 4x4 is well beyond the reach of most Mozambicans so many aspire to own a bike (if they can afford the  yearly licence, that is and yes, you did read that correctly!)

Sometimes, when the tide is up in the mangroves, not even a 4x4 will help you out!

Tropical paradise, Serra da Gorongosa

One for all you travel agents out there!

A type of Mozambican wildlife we've come quiet familiar with... Mataquene (at the end of the needle point) live in dust. If they get the opportunity, they love to burrow into your feet where they pupate and lay eggs. Digging them out is not for the faint hearted!  

Some lessons of Mozambique (and human nature)

Beira city-centre skyline

The following are tips we have learnt whilst living in Mozambique:

1. Men must always wear shoes (not flip flops) to church.

2. Always give and receive with your right hand.

3. Always reply to a request with the answer ‘yes’ even if you have no intention of doing it.

4. Offer any food you have if there are other people around.

5. Smiling goes a long, long way.

6. Make sure your thighs don’t show.

7. Beeping your car horn is a polite way of letting others know you are around. 

8. You're considered 'a youth' until you are 35 years old (a bit strange when life expectancy is 48...)

9.  Despite being a Portuguese colony, you drive on the left... ish.

10. Forget queuing! When waiting in line, stand as close as possible to the person in front and push in front if you get an opportunity.

Whilst at times it seems there are endless cultural things we are yet to learn, occasionally events cut across cultures. Here are two not so serious examples: 

Not that long ago, we were waiting for a driver to reverse out of a car parking space. The driver was taking ages and doing a very bad job of it. Nearby was a car park guard and we gestured a shrugged enquiry as to why the driver was having so much trouble with a simple manoeuvre. Through a hand gesture that was universally recognisable (but slightly awkward to describe in writing), he explained that the only problem with the vehicle was that it had a woman driver! Maybe a Mozambican Number One Ladies Driving School would go down well here...

Isaac helping clear a machamba (field) at a friends house

So, having insulted women drivers everywhere, it's probably only fair to give another story relating to perceived failings of Mozambican men. On another occasion, we were chatting to Dona Louisa, desperately trying to explain the importance of Isaac helping around the house in order that he understands that household jobs are not just for women. She heartily agreed, but quietly turned to Christine when Geoff wasn’t listening to point out that although this was a good theory, everyone knew that all men were worse than totally useless when it came to things like this.

We're aware these stories are a bit tongue in cheek, but finding common ground in the little things of life helps to remind us just how much of human life can cut across culture. Pray that we continue to find common ground with others as we get to know our neighbours living in very different circumstances here on the Mozambican coast.

The important things in life

I expected after being in Mozambique for three months and having acquired an overview of Mozambican life, I would be writing lots of deep and meaningful things on this blog: wonderfully insightful cultural, ethical and moral tales and the like. So, I’ve decided that this week’s post should be a reflection on the big events that have happened in our lives this week. There have been a few, after all:

Big Event number 1:

Geoff’s news (and I think this is the most significant) is that last week he reached the ripe old age of 30 and has finally stopped saying that he’s in his 20’s whilst I’m in my 30’s.  (It has been noted that there has been no sign of any maturing in his character since this particular landmark has been reached.)  Although his birthday in itself was a low key event, the following Saturday – armed with bucket and spade and accompanied by our friend, Heather – we went to the tropical paradise that is Rio Savanne, some 30km down a dirt track outside Beira.  The secluded beach requires a boat trip to get to and it was a wonderful day out.  Isaac especially enjoyed it as he learned to eat ‘fish in shells’ (otherwise known as clams).  The day was finished off by driving home under a beautiful African sunset.

Big Event number 2:

Isaac’s news is that after several failed attempts since we have been here (and lots of clearing up) he has decided to potty-train himself at last! Now, he knows when to go, how to wash his hands afterwards and the importance of showing his parents his offering in order to get a coloured star sticker.  The only down fall we’ve had is that one night, in his eager ness to show us his offering, he picked up the full potty and, running with it to show us, tripped over, pouring the whole lot down his front!  Well learning is a process, I suppose…

Big Event number 3:

It’s been a huge week in Naomi’s life as she’s quickly turning from a baby into a toddler.  Her first four teeth have appeared all at once and now she’s enjoying food much more and testing out which items are good to bite and which aren’t.  She has also learnt to walk, not in slow steady steps as most toddlers, but after months of making us walk beside her holding her hand, she’s off! And not slowly either; almost running before she can walk!

Big Event number 4:

Portuguese test number two has been taken and we are awaiting results.

Well, okay! This might not exactly be an insightful, thought provoking look into the complexities of life here or some astute response to the challenges of Mozambican culture, but it is a reflection on the events that have affected our lives last week… it’ll have to do until I become more wise!

What Mum and Dad won't tell you...

Mum and Dad have been a bit slow in the blog department so we are going to write this one, please excuse our mistakes as Naomi can hardly talk so writing a blog entry is particularly difficult for us. After our party, life has continued as normal so we thought we might tell you how our days are.

Every morning we wake up nice and early and act as the most effective alarm clock Mum and Dad have ever had.  Just in case the noise we make isn’t enough, Isaac likes to jump on the bed and generally climb all over them until they get up and get our breakfast.  Breakfast is a great time for making sure that the bath we take each night looks like it never happened.  Naomi feeds herself (and her hair) Weetabix and sometimes Isaac helps her by giving her some of his soggy cereal.  Then it’s play time, we run around laughing and avoiding Mum and Dad so that we can stay in our pyjamas.

Once they manage to dress us we head off to our nursery in our blue uniform tabards.  We both love school as we get to speak and listen to both English and Portuguese.  We play with other children and get to do drawing, singing and a little bit of learning numbers.  There is a big red slide outside and our favourite thing to do is climb up the steps, crawl through the tunnel and go down the slide again and again.

After nursery we get collected and go home for lunch. Then it’s nap time (although sometimes Naomi has a late lunch as she often falls asleep in the car).  If we’re nice to them, Mum and Dad get some free time to do homework and other boring things.  After our nap, we like to play ‘towers’ or go down stairs into the yard outside.  If Naomi wakes up early, she likes to go for a walk in a caplana (Mozambican sling) to buy fruit and vegetables from the market. After all our playing, we are hungry and generally want dinner at 5 o’clock (it normally arrives at 5.30 which is really very late). Both of us love to eat spicy food; if the food isn’t spicy enough we add spicy peri-peri sauce to it.  After a bath together with lots of splashing and a little bit of a DVD, it’s time for bed so that we can get lots of energy to wake up Mum and Dad bright and early the next day...

The best room for a party!

It might not have been the best cake we’ve ever made, but it certainly received the biggest response! Birthdays here are definitely to be celebrated if at all possible and if there are two birthdays in a family, there is cause for a big celebration. Dona Louisa had birthdays to celebrate this week: Raulinho had his first birthday on Monday and on Tuesday, Bilão turned three. As she now has a job, it was definitely time for a party.

Slowly the requests came: ‘Senhora, what do you need for a cake?’, ’Senhora, how to you bake a cake?’, ‘Senhora, could you bake a cake for me?’ The ingredients for the cake arrived one by one as they could be afforded and carefully stored away in our house so none of her neighbours were tempted to ‘borrow’ them. A few days later more questions: ‘Senhora, how do you cook spaghetti?’, ‘Senhora, are you around this weekend?’ and finally, ‘Senhora, could we hold the party in your garage?’ The spaghetti arrived along with other various ingredients, we had a practise cake-baking session and all was set and ready to go.

It’s Saturday morning, and Louisa and her husband, Abdul, arrive at our back door having swept and cleaned thoroughly below our apartment and sorted the garage ready.  The party is supposed to start at two that afternoon, but this is Africa so we expect it to start at three.  At around two-thirty, Dona Louisa arrives at our back door again and asks me to cook spaghetti for 4 adults and 10 children. We hadn’t realised this was part of the deal but it’s a bit late to say no now.  We quickly cook spaghetti to be ready by three… At four, the first guests and children arrive.

The garage is decorated with balloons, there is loud party music and children running, laughing and dancing. Naomi is whisked away by some of the children and promptly joins in the dancing (though in a proudly British, uncoordinated way). Isaac eventually realises that if he joins the children he gets food and he becomes part of the crowd. As dinner is served, a quick head count shows there are 8 adults and 25 children including us. We quickly pray for a miracle, something  similar to loaves and fishes, but there seems plenty to go round. Soon it’s time for the cake: the most important part. Happy birthday is sung and Raulinho and Bilão get the first pieces. The rest is eagerly shared out and, after a little more running around and dancing, the majority of children leave allowing Isaac and Naomi to play balloons with Dona Louisa’s children and to run wild in the yard.

Whilst the children were clearly having a great time, we all felt for Abdul, who carefully avoided the plentiful crisps and biscuits because of Ramadan. But we’re not sure food was on his mind that afternoon. He was quietly tucked away in a corner, listening intently to the radio through his mobile phone. But who can blame him! Clube Ferroviário da Beira were drawing 3-3 away from home in the capital Maputo with only a few minutes left. Ask any man anywhere in the world and they’ll give you the same response when it comes to priorities in that type of situation.

Oh, and last week’s test… We both passed and amazingly got exactly the same overall percentage. Just as well really, it’s not that we’re competitive,  but…

Sun, sand, surf and immigration...

A view over the city from our language school

This week has already been significant for lots of reasons. Firstly, we finally managed to get all our paperwork together and apply for a DIRE (Documento de Identificação de um Residente Estrangeiro) each. This is basically a residence permit for foreigners, and involved us traipsing up to the local immigration office with Pastor Moises yesterday to get this important job done. We were fearing the worst as these things can be a little tricky, but the whole process only took three hours (that’s really not at all bad) and was all very professional. The most amusing part involved trying to keep a screaming Naomi’s index fingers still for long enough for her fingerprints to be scanned!

This Friday we have our first little language test: just two and quarter hours of speaking, reading, listening, grammar and writing… Terrific! But, before we dive headlong into last ditch, late-night cramming sessions, Christine has the very important job of helping Dona Louisa make a trial-run birthday cake for two of her children, Bilão and Raulinho, who were 3 and 1 this week. This needs to go well because on Saturday our garage is going to be transformed into children’s party central…

Fishermen unloading fish and prawns at Macuti

And there’s more! These things pale into insignificance compared with Geoff having his first Mozambican haircut. He had toyed with the idea of embracing the beach-lifestyle scenery and adopting surfer-dude style golden curls but he couldn’t cope with the constant mocking from his wife. The verdict? A little on the severe side, but really not that bad!

When is a Lesson in Portuguese not a Portuguese Lesson?

Sorry we haven’t blogged for a while, the last few weeks have been a bit crazy as we've had intermittent water and lots of people have been talking to us about electricity, bombas, and things that aren't really covered in Chapters 1-3 of our exercise book. Language seems to be sinking in, but takes a lot of our time.  Whilst we are learning excellent things in lessons like how to introduce ourselves, explain directions, or order Portuguese delicacies in a café overlooking the Mediterranean,  it’s in the afternoons that the real lessons begin as we talk to the people who live and work around our apartment.  Christine may not have perfect verb endings but can discuss the day to day activities of the children’s bowel movements as required and Geoff is getting up to speed talking about water pumps and all things electrical.

 

Whilst were struggling through language and adapting to the challenges of a new culture, the children seem to have no such problem.  Isaac, when faced with a child he hasn’t met starts of by speaking in English and if there is no response reverts to the Portuguese he is picking up with ease.  Naomi (or Noémia as she is often called here) has discovered that she very much likes being in a caplana (see photo) and loves the attention she receives for saying ‘olá!’ to everyone she passes. Strangely, although she seems to have no problem understanding both languages when she is talked to about food, she ignores both when it’s about things she shouldn’t be doing...

Hopefully the bomba (pump) will be sorted soon and we’ll have a bit more free time to keep you all updated. Thanks for all the comments, emails and updates, they’re all really appreciated!